On Deja News:
Any beta on matterhorn north face routes. any easy ones.
On the north face of Matterhorn is no really easy route. The
easiest route is the classical way of the brothers Schmidt,
gradually UIAA IV. At beginning there is a 300 meter
iceclimb with ~ 55 grade.
The most parts are mixed climbing and hard for protecting.
The best time is the later spring, the end of winter - it`s depended
from the conditions of snow and ice.
In the later winter it is cold and not so dangerous because
rock and icefall.
Greetings from Salzburg
face is 1000m high from the Matterhorn glacier to the summit.
Because the rays of the sun rarely reach here, this face is icy.
The rock is not good for climbing and is the least firm in the top
third of the climb.
falling rocks affect the north face of the Matterhorn too, winter
climbing is safer.
route on this face is a milestone in the history of climbing. The
Matterhorn north face is reserved for the boldest and best
climbers. It has been climbed quite frequently.
hours from the Hörnli hut
most difficult place: 5
face was for a long time one of the last great challenges in the
Alps. The first complete ascent of the north face was achieved by
Franz and Toni Schmid on 31 July and 1 August 1931. The bothers
had ridden by bicycle from Munich. They pitched their tent at
Stafel at the foot of the Matterhorn glacier. They set off around
midnight on 31 July. They first walked up to the Hörnli hut and
told the warden about their intended climb. They climbed down to
the Matterhorn glacier and began their extremely difficult ascent.
They bivouacked overnight at 4150m.
was a complete sensation when the unknown young climbers reached
the summit of the Matterhorn in stormy weather at 2 p.m. on the
Swiss national day. The whole world was amazed at their
achievement. It was the first time the two German climbers had
climbed one of the great mountains in the Valais. It seemed all
the more astonishing that they had climbed the Matterhorn north
face, which was considered unconquerable, at the first attempt.
And they achieved it in such a bad summer as that of 1931, when
there was constant bad weather and a lot of snow lay on the
snow in fact helped them. It covered the smooth slabs on the north
face, which tilt downwards like roof tiles, with a layer of ice
and snow, which was easy for them to climb.
and Toni Schmid were awarded an Olympic gold medal for their
extraordinary achievement. It is the only gold medal that the
international Olympic committee has ever awarded for an
achievement in climbing.
Hilti van Allmen and Paul Etter 3. /4. Februar 1962
Schmid route (SAC n:o 1134)
route is not extremely difficult. However, there is the danger of
falling rocks, especially in the lower part. This tour should only
be undertaken when the bad rock is held firm by snow and ice.
Duration: 12-14 hours from the Hörnli hut
Grade of difficulty: very difficult, most difficult place:
Another picture from Schmid-route:
From Peakware.com's Summit Log:
"We made the classic "Schmid-Route" (North-Face), starting
half past midnight at the Hoernli hut and "entered" the summit at 7:30
in the evening. We had a lot of rocks and stones falling down the wall caused by
the people on the standard way, but - ... - we made it."
Date(s) summited: August 1, 1990
Date signed: February 16, 1999